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Golden Gates of Vladimir

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Alexander's Journal January 1838

The news of my transfer to Vladimir came just before Christmas. On New Years I arrived in Vladimir and was greeted by Gavrilo Semënych, the first of our own people and the first figure out of my former life, whom I met after imprisonment and exile. I was finally home, close to my friends and family!

Today, the second of January, I have decided to enjoy my newfound freedom by taking a stroll and exploring the beautiful city of Vladimir. Although the Vladimir of 1838 is merely a town with a population fewer than 13,000 individuals, it was once a powerful Medieval city and contains a rich history. I brought my journal along for the tour so I may jot down thoughts that come to mind as I tour this historical city.

I will begin my sightseeing tour of Vladimir at its main entrance, the Golden Gates.  Present day Vladimir has extended beyond the Golden Gates, which are now located near the center of town. The Golden Gates once functioned as a fortification of the city, however. In school I remember learning about the Grand Prince Andrei Bogoliubskii. Prince Bogoliobskii constructed the gates between 1158 and 1164.

Today all that remains of the original building are its two walls of white stone and its passageway. Its passageway is characterized by an extremely high archway. A massive semi-circular vault supported by flat pilasters covers the passageway. I imagine various noblemen and princes of ancient times entering the beautiful town through this arch. The exterior of the gates was once covered with sheets of gilded copper. This likely explains how the gates were dubbed “Golden”. Yet, the edifice is made predominantly of white stone, which is characteristic of the unique practice of Vladimir-Suzdal builders of the time in creating structures with white stone.
Over the centuries the Golden Gates have likely changed drastically. According to legend, the gates were first damaged when the Mongols seized Vladimir in 1238. I wonder what hardships and cruelties the residents of Vladimir may have suffered under Mongol rule.

The next stop on my grand tour is the majestic and beautiful Cathedral of Dormition. The Cathedral of Dormition was an incredible architectural achievement. Built in 1158, the Cathedral was the largest building in Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky’s new capital. The Cathedral was positioned at the edge of town, overlooking the Kliaz’ma River. If my memory serves me, one of the legendary Russian chronicles, I believe the Kievan, proclaimed “God brought artists to Andrei from all parts of the earth” (Chronicle of Kiev). The Grand Prince recruited expert stonemasons from the West to help fulfill his ambition in creating this mighty Cathedral.

Similar to the Gates, today the Cathedral is made of the traditional white stone with several golden domes on its roof. Like the Gates, I also wonder how much of the present day cathedral is true to the original.   When the Mongols captured the town in 1238, they locked the prince’s family, the bishop and some of the townspeople in the choir gallery of the cathedral and set fire to it. Some say the Golden Horde caused all terrible things that have happened in Russia. I am not completely convinced and would like to learn more. So I entered the church where I found a room dedicated to Vladimir’s long history. I was immediately intrigued by the shrine dedicated to Prince Aleksandr Nevsky. I will record what I encountered: