The Imperiia Project: a spatial history of the Russian Empire

Yaroslavl

The Cathedral of the Annunciation marks the steamboat landing. From here it is 7 hours upriver to Ruibinsk and 6 hours downriver to Kostroma. Nizhni-Novgorod is 32 hours away. (Yes, I am endlessly calculating distances and durations. What else is there to do?)

There are 4 hotels and I have been in Russia long enough now to find such a thing remarkable. But to be fair, this is a provincial capital with 112,000 inhabitants. It is prosperous. It is the seat of an archbishop. It once gave refuge to an exiled duke. It is picturesque. There is a seminary and a lyceum and numerous churches with innumerable cupolas (the Church of John the Baptist alone has 15). There are bridges and palaces and squares. There is a theater and a proper restaurant - the Buttler - with a concert-garden.

I have come to think of Yaroslavl as a city of holy doors and gilded domes.
Distance from Tver: 457 versts

Care for a sidetrack? Try spending a few hours in Rostov.

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