Baedeker was right to describe this as a "brisk river-port." It is a veritable boom town in comparison with the glorified (and unglorified) villages we passed through after Tver, and apparently its population of 31,500 swells to 100,000 in summer.
The Cathedral of the Transfiguration sits on the Volga Quay, but I was lured off the boat to go in search of caviar, this being a hub of the industry (and of the grain trade - but bread is ever so slightly less alluring).
I was back on board within an hour, my mouth salty and amused.
Distance from Tver: 367 versts